Monday, May 18, 2026

The 1980 Gwangju Uprising: The Confession of a Paratrooper

Today marks the 46th anniversary of the beginning of the Gwangju Uprising, a topic I've written about many times (an index is here). 

One topic I've never looked deeply into is the view from the military side. It's worth noting the military deployments that occurred at this time. The New Military Group under Chun Doo-hwan responded to two days of large-scale student protests in central Seoul (on May 14-15) by expanding martial law (partial martial law had been in place since Park Chung-hee's assassination the previous October), closing universities, closing the National Assembly, and arresting politicians who could challenge Chun. When this occurred, most Special Warfare Command (ie. special forces / paratroopers) units were stationed at university campuses in Seoul or nearby. The exception was elements of the SWC 7th Brigade that were sent to Gwangju and (likely) Jeonju universities, likely chosen for this because they were based near Iksan. Marines were deployed to southeastern cities. The 7th Brigade's brutality in Gwangju on May 18 sparked the uprising, but the fact that any protest at all was occurring there led the New Military Group to quickly send the SWC 11th Brigade to Gwangju, and they arrived the morning of May 19. When they failed to quell the protests, the SWC 3rd Brigade (perhaps considered the best-trained; they had put down the October 1979 Busan protests) were deployed and arrived on May 20. As the situation worsened, the 20th Infantry Division was sent, but by the time they arrived on May 21, the military had fired on protesters in front of the Provincial Office, the citizen army had formed, and the New Military Group ordered all units to retreat to the outskirts of the city, where they surrounded it for 5 days before returning in force on the morning of May 27.

Over the last year or so I've found three accounts by paratroopers of the events of May 1980 (and earlier). I haven't found any by former 7th Brigade soldiers, but there are two by those from the 11th Brigade and one from the 3rd Brigade.

The first I'll share, which I found reprinted here, was originally published as 이경남, 20년 만의 고백 : 한 특전사 병사가 겪은 광주『당대비평』 1999년 겨울호 / Lee Gyeong-nam, “A Confession After 20 Years: Gwangju as Experienced by a Special Warfare Command Soldier,” Dangdae Bipyeong [Contemporary Critique], Winter 1999, pp. 203-223.

Lee is a witness to the SWC's training, the shooting in front of the Provincial Office, and the May 24 accidental firefight between two military units, which he describes in detail.

*******

1980 was not only a time of upheaval for our society but also a period of personal pain for me. I was a young man in my mid-20s about to graduate from a theological seminary. Like Jonah in the Bible, unable to bear my burden, I chose to flee to the military. God, like casting Jonah into the sea, placed me in the Special Forces and ultimately threw me into the horrific scene of Gwangju in May.

Over the next 20 years, I wanted to escape the memories of that dreadful site. Above all, due to the physical injuries and emotional wounds I suffered, I tried to stay as far away from them as possible.

Perhaps that wasn’t the only reason. The renewed faith life I embarked upon and the demands of pastoring a rural church didn’t allow me the space to deeply contemplate serious historical issues. Still, in a corner of my heart, I always longed to visit Gwangju in May someday—to revisit the horrifying sites, reflect on the message they conveyed to me, and mourn and pay respect to the innocent citizens lying in Mangwol-dong.

I enlisted in the military in May 1979. After completing airborne and special warfare training (specifically guerrilla infiltration and riot control training), I was assigned to a brigade under the Special Warfare Command around the end of September. Then, in October, the presidential assassination occurred, followed by the December 12 incident. The Special Forces troops, unknowingly, became the power base of the New Military Group with political ambitions and were swept into an enormous political whirlwind.

After the assassination, DEFCON III—a wartime alert level—was issued, and serving in the frontline airborne brigade in Hwacheon, Gangwon Province, I had to endure tense, sleepless military days. The ensuing chaos and unrest in spring 1980, spurred by the New Military Group’s intentions to seize power, made life and training unbearably tough for the paratroopers. As junior soldiers and NCOs, we had no understanding of the political situation or the military’s intentions. We simply believed the narrative: the president was dead, the country was in turmoil, and war was looming—therefore, these riots had to be suppressed.

Moreover, what we heard in ideological training was that all college students were leftist radicals. Naturally, this instilled hostility in us, which psychologically set the stage for the atrocities we would later commit in Gwangju.

Even now, some may think the New Military Group’s rise to power in 1980 was an inevitable reaction to the outbreak of the Gwangju Uprising and ensuing chaos. But in retrospect, this was not the case at all.

I still vividly remember the expression of our company commander during the end-of-year meeting around December 30, 1979, as we began a three-day New Year break. At the time, Special Forces troops received higher pay than regular infantry due to parachute allowances. Though I don’t remember the exact details, it was said that from the new year, Special Forces soldiers would receive a 200% salary and 500% increase in parachute allowances. I remember the excited faces of my fellow soldiers as they cheerfully calculated their future pay. I, a private first class at the time, did the same and thought I might actually save some money during my service. This was clearly a calculated incentive by the New Military Group to win loyalty and create their own Praetorian Guard.

Since my assignment to the unit in October 1979, all regular training had been suspended and we were thrown into endless riot suppression drills. I had suspicions: if there was a real threat from North Korea, why weren’t we preparing for war instead of focusing solely on quelling protests? By spring 1980, the student demonstrations and political fragmentation caused by the rivalry of the three Kims made the situation increasingly grim. Our unit began full preparations for riot suppression. Soldiers ventured into deep mountains in Gangwon to chop down tough birch trees to make our own batons. Ideological training was repeatedly drilled into us, stressing the urgency of early suppression and the need to eliminate leftist radicals.

I recall that our brigade in Hwacheon moved en masse to Seoul around early May 1980. This was not a temporary deployment but a relocation intended for long-term stationing. Every July and August, airborne troops undergo weeks of swimming training on the coast. We were instructed to bring swimming gear when we relocated in spring, implying a long-term plan that included martial law and what might follow—not simply a return to base after a mission.

I remember departing in the evening and arriving at Chuncheon Station late at night, where we boarded a train with all curtains drawn and reached the airborne brigade in Gimpo by dawn. At that time, I recall thinking, “During the Korean War, North Korean soldiers moved south in similarly covered trains. What kind of strange situation is this?” I began to feel a growing unease about the unknown developments.

In May, we had to sleep without removing our boots or uniforms, ready to deploy at any moment. Just a few days before martial law was declared, the commander of the Special Warfare Command issued a 15 million won allowance to each brigade. Our battalion received 4 million won, and we held a grand feast with pork and liquor. While waiting, we continued receiving ideological training, conducted by a battalion commander who had suppressed the Busan-Masan (Buma) protests.

He proudly recounted how ruthlessly and decisively they had crushed the protests, and the soldiers admired him as a hero.

Several deployment orders were issued and then suddenly canceled. Finally, on the evening of the 17th, the order came through. We boarded military vehicles and entered downtown Seoul. When we got off the trucks, we realized we were at Dongguk University, and it was almost midnight. Some of us were sent to apprehend protesting students inside the campus, while the rest of us paused to listen to a broadcast instead of unloading our gear. The person on the broadcast was then Army Chief of Staff Lee Hui-seong. In a sharp and intimidating voice, he announced the proclamation of emergency martial law and declared that key anti-government figures would be arrested.

The next day, on the afternoon of the 18th around 5 p.m., we were abruptly ordered to redeploy to Gwangju. We were suddenly told to pack our things, with no explanation, though there were vague rumors among the troops that large numbers of guerrillas had infiltrated Jeju Island, which is where we assumed we were going.

Some personnel boarded planes and departed first, while the rest of us took a late-night train from Cheongnyangni Station. None of the soldiers knew where we were going or why—we simply obeyed orders. We were accustomed to that kind of life. No one questioned it, nor could they.

As the train sped south, I remember a moment as we passed through the darkness of Pyeongtaek, where my parents served as pastors. I saw faint village lights in the distance and felt an overwhelming longing for my family. I pulled out a book from my bag, one I had hidden from others back in the barracks: An Appeal to the Korean Youth. I may have been reading it half-heartedly, but I remember thinking: “As a Korean youth, where am I being taken right now…?” My comrades scoffed: “This is no time to be reading.”

We arrived in Gwangju around 2 a.m. and were taken to Chosun University, where sleeping quarters had already been arranged. Exhausted, we threw down our gear and got a few hours of sleep—maybe just three or four—before being jolted awake by orders to deploy. We quickly packed light field gear, fixed our bayonets, and loaded into military trucks to conduct what was called a “show of force.”

Rumor had it that a different Airborne Brigade based in Geumma, North Jeolla Province, had already been deployed to Gwangju. But due to unexpectedly fierce resistance from the students and the excessive response by that brigade, public sentiment turned sour. That unit was pulled out and replaced with ours.

On the morning of the 19th, the student demonstrations were relatively subdued, perhaps due to the brutal crackdown the day before. When soldiers approached, protesters usually dispersed rather than confront them directly.

But by the afternoon, things began to change. Infuriated by the stares and silent disapproval of the citizens, soldiers became increasingly aggressive. They began indiscriminately rounding up young people—on the streets, in markets—beating them, stripping them, and attacking them with riot batons and bayonets.

Troops spread out across the city. When student protesters fled into houses or buildings, soldiers followed them in and beat anyone young-looking, assuming they were part of the demonstrations. Innocent bystanders—people simply walking home from work—were dragged off and assaulted.

I remember members of my unit storming into an inn, dragging out a young man, and beating him so severely that his head and face were covered in blood. He begged for his life in utter terror.

Women were not spared. Those apprehended were often stripped, kicked with military boots, and humiliated before being loaded onto trucks and taken to military bases at Jeonnam or Chosun Universities, where the abuse continued. People watching from the streets were horrified. Initially, some protested, but after witnessing such extreme violence, everyone grew silent and fearful.

Despite the horror of it all, I remember the confidence and swagger of the soldiers as they returned from “clearing” the streets.

In a word, it was an attitude of, “Those bastards, those nobodies dare to act up.” I do not remember clearly whether it was the 19th or the 20th, but when I returned after going around the city, there were hundreds of students who had been captured by soldiers in the grounds of Chosŏn University, and on that wide athletic field they were being mercilessly beaten and trampled by dozens of soldiers. They were forced to crawl through gutters as the soldiers ordered, and had to do dozens of laps around the athletic field, while those who lagged behind suffered the humiliation of being kicked with military boots and beaten with riot batons.

Also, whether it was on the 20th or the following day I cannot remember for certain, but in the gymnasium building being used by the military police I saw two young men lying there dead, pale white. They were probably people who had been killed either while being transported in vehicles or amid such circumstances. I also heard that there were soldiers who, while transporting beaten and injured students in military trucks, detonated several tear gas grenades inside the trucks, so the situation was so horrific that if it was fortunate they did not die in the process, that alone could be counted as luck. Such miserable scenes continued without end.

Throughout the morning and afternoon of the 20th we went around the city suppressing demonstrations, but the more the soldiers did so, the stranger it seemed that even though many people were not directly participating in the protests, the crowds nevertheless kept growing until the streets were full. Perhaps, as matters had reached such a state, people were curious, and although they were too frightened to join the demonstration ranks themselves, they seemed to be silently expressing support for the protests and hatred toward the airborne troops. Perhaps because they sensed this atmosphere, some soldiers even unhesitatingly made extreme remarks such as, “All those Chŏlla-do bastards ought to be killed.” Many among us had already become slaves to blind rage.

That day wasn’t as violent as the day before. I think the commanders realized things were escalating too fast and gave orders to hold back. And maybe because of the strong show of force, student protests had temporarily diminished in intensity.

However, from late in the evening onward, the number of demonstrators increased rapidly. The soldiers exercised restraint and merely surrounded them without forcibly dispersing them, but on the streets not only did the number of demonstrators grow enormously, the number of ordinary citizens did as well. Some among them even looked at the soldiers surrounding them and asked whether they were really soldiers of the Republic of Korea, or perhaps communist troops instead. There were also people demonstrating with Taegeukgi flags attached to their vehicles, and in the face of this situation I saw unit commanders unable to decide what to do, busily contacting higher commanders by radio and receiving operational instructions.

At length, the order for the unit to retreat was given. The soldiers were to withdraw toward Chosŏn University, leaving the demonstrators as they were, and citizens who saw this even applauded as they sent the soldiers off. The demonstrators also followed the withdrawing soldiers while singing military songs to them. Abandoning the hostile attitude they had shown up to that point and seeing the airborne troops quietly withdrawing, some citizens jumped into the ranks of soldiers, offering handshakes to them and even trying to embrace them, showing enthusiastic reactions. The sight of this truly gave a strange feeling.

In my view, as the situation was taking on a serious aspect, the soldiers were carrying out a tactical withdrawal, but people seemed pleased, thinking the soldiers had changed their minds and were going back of their own accord. In the end, I cannot help but think bitterly that this only left them even more deeply wounded.

I sometimes wonder: did that idealistic young man who ran toward us smiling, thinking things were okay—did he survive?

That night, as we retreated from Chosun University, a terrifying confrontation occurred. It must have been around 9 p.m. To block the demonstrators following behind, soldiers continuously fired tear gas as they withdrew. Despite repeated warnings to turn back, some of the protestors seized a fire truck and charged past our blockade—a highly dangerous situation. Then a fiery glow lit up the night sky. I later heard it was the local tax office that had been set on fire. The situation was spiraling out of control.

As the night grew darker and more serious, a battalion commander, standing behind an armored vehicle and firing warning shots, desperately requested permission via radio to use live ammunition. From what I saw, his voice grew increasingly urgent, as if pleading.

Later I found out that the demonstrators had followed the military back to Chosun University not just to chase us down but to demand the release of the citizens who had been detained on the campus. When their demand was not met, a small group of radical students began to act—commandeering the fire truck to ram through barriers and throwing stones to launch a surprise attack. Rocks hurled from the darkness struck some soldiers, who collapsed screaming in pain. Enraged, soldiers responded fiercely, chasing down fleeing students and, in some cases, beating them to death. I think that night may have marked the true beginning of the slaughter that became the Gwangju Uprising. In that moment of chaos, I felt like I wasn’t in my right mind. How had I come to be here? The unfolding scene allowed no room for questioning. It was like a vision of hell—gunfire and tear gas everywhere, darkness swallowing the neighborhood near the university, screams and cries blending into a horrific cacophony.

Somehow, amid it all, I spotted a civilian who had been beaten nearly to death by soldiers. Without thinking, I left formation, lifted him onto my back, and carried him into a nearby civilian house. Why did I act so recklessly? I can only say that it felt like the only thing I could do.

But no matter how much I knocked, no one would open their door. Eventually, I turned down an alley and saw a small church, with a faint light glowing from within. I knocked frantically, and a tall, dignified elderly man with white hair opened the door. Startled at first, he quickly led me and the injured man into his study. There, we found several students who had already taken refuge.Imagine the scene: a paratrooper, still wearing boots and carrying a rifle, entering a sanctuary where frightened students had hidden from the very violence I represented. I can't imagine what they thought.

When I laid the man down under the light, he was already unconscious. He looked to be in his late 40s or early 50s—a laborer, maybe. His head had been split open by a riot baton, a gash more than 15 centimeters long. One of his arms appeared broken and limp.

That night, I slept in the pastor's study alongside those students. At dawn the next day, I returned alone to my unit. Of course, my unauthorized absence caused serious trouble. My superiors were furious. I was punished, beaten, and reprimanded. But what truly terrified me wasn’t the punishment.

Even now, I can still hear the students sobbing and wailing, dragging the bodies of their dead comrades, shouting, singing, pleading into the night.

I never learned the identity of the man I carried, nor whether he lived or died. All I know is that the church was “Gwangju Sae Church” in Hakil-dong, and the pastor’s name was Jeong In-bo. Judging from his age at the time, he must have passed away by now.

When I returned to the unit on the 21st, it turned out to be one of the most pivotal days of the entire Gwangju Uprising. Upon arrival, word of my return was radioed to the command, and I was sent by truck to Sangmu Base, where my unit had been resting. My uniform was soaked in blood. My direct superior exploded in rage, berating me. But despite everything, what he said left a lasting impression on me. Though he had spent the night anxious over my disappearance and was livid, he knew I was a theology student and not someone prone to trouble, so he handled it within reasonable limits. He told me, “Under martial law, desertion is grounds for immediate execution. I know what you were doing last night—but this is a war zone. Get your head straight and act properly.” To this day, I’m strangely grateful to that captain and the other officers who handled the incident with discretion.

Later that morning, on the 21st, we marched into the Gwangju Provincial Office. All the soldiers from our brigade were gathering there.

By then, the demonstrators were filled with fury after seeing so many die the night before. Armed with vehicles, they now began to confront the military directly. At one point, I saw an armored vehicle stolen from an industrial complex advancing toward us.

During the Gwangju Hearings, one of the brigade commanders testified that the army began firing after soldiers were killed by demonstrators in armored vehicles. Court records also reflect this. But that is not what I witnessed.

When the demonstrators’ armored vehicle appeared near the Provincial Office, no soldiers were present in the immediate area, so it passed without injuring anyone. It simply turned and drove away. The soldier who died beneath an armored vehicle was not struck by one driven by the demonstrators, but rather by a military armored car maneuvered by our own forces during a chaotic retreat.

I saw it with my own eyes. Negotiations with the protestors had failed, and when some demonstrators began driving vehicles toward us, a military armored vehicle, attempting to retreat in a hurry, ran over a fallen soldier. He died instantly. His body was pinned beneath the tracks of the vehicle, blood pouring from his mouth. He had just joined our unit—a rookie.

When demonstrators holding steel pipes, batons, and riding trucks and buses faced off against soldiers on Chungjang-ro Street, the situation became extremely dangerous and urgent. The commanding officers appeared visibly distressed, unsure of how to respond. I was positioned more toward the rear of our formation, so I wasn’t in immediate danger, but those soldiers stationed on the front lines—just meters from the protesters—must have been paralyzed with fear when vehicles suddenly surged forward toward them. From the sky, helicopters broadcasted demands urging the protestors to disperse. The protesters chanted and sang solemnly. Thousands of paratroopers and tens of thousands of protestors now stood on the brink of an all-out clash. Unless one had actually stood there in person, it would be impossible to grasp the sheer intensity of that moment.

Earlier that morning, another vivid memory comes to mind. At the plaza in front of the Provincial Office fountain, demonstrators and soldiers faced each other in a standoff. A city bus suddenly broke through the line and rushed toward the soldiers. The soldiers, startled, scattered. The bus crashed into a tree and came to a halt. Angered by the incident, the soldiers ran into the streets and began to beat passing civilians indiscriminately. One man in his 40s or 50s, wearing rubber slippers and a jacket, happened to be walking by and got caught up in the frenzy. He was soon knocked unconscious by batons. Sensing that his life might be in danger, I rushed to lift him and drag him away to safety. He was a large man, and I struggled to carry him. At that moment, a sergeant from another company ran over and helped me. Hundreds of fellow paratroopers were watching us. After dragging the injured man to safety, we gestured to nearby citizens to take care of him, then returned to our lines.

Shortly afterward, a senior officer from my company approached me. He pointed his bayonet at me and asked, “Are you trying to get yourself killed?” Then he added, “Whose side are you on—ours or theirs?”

I didn’t respond. I just smiled faintly. He then warned me, “If you pull something like that again, I’ll shoot you myself.” But I had seen something else. As we had rescued the injured man and handed him over to the citizens, some of them, unable to approach out of fear, simply bowed their heads toward us in gratitude.

At one point during a standoff near what I remember as the Jeonil Building, a young man leaned out a window and hurled profanity at the soldiers. Furious, soldiers stormed into the building and dragged him out, bloodied and broken. As they pressed bayonets to his neck and threatened to kill him, he pleaded for his life with a look of pure terror on his face. I can’t forget that look. As a low-ranking private, I was powerless to intervene. What happened to him afterward, I’ll never know.

The shooting at the Provincial Office on May 21 began shortly after one of our soldiers was run over and killed by our own armored vehicle during the chaos caused by oncoming protestor vehicles. As the protesters advanced, our defensive line collapsed. The plaza in front of the Provincial Office filled with demonstrators and their vehicles. At that point, someone ordered the soldiers to open fire. With gunfire, the crowd scattered. We dropped to the pavement, lying prone to take cover.

In my memory, at that time, the armored vehicle stood in the middle of the road and fired a .50 caliber machine gun in rapid bursts. That was not just a warning shot—it was clearly live, targeted fire. Some people say the shooting at the front of the provincial government building began with gunfire from the demonstrators, and that the military only responded, but to my knowledge, that’s simply not true. It was only after the military began shooting that the citizens, having seized weapons, began to return fire. They did not shoot first, nor was it simultaneous. At the time, hundreds of soldiers were lying prone, completely exposed, on the road in front of the provincial office. Even after we had withdrawn, none of us were hit by any gunfire from the protesters. If the demonstrators had indeed possessed firearms and fired at us, some of us, who were lying completely vulnerable, should have been hit. But that did not happen. Furthermore, around 4 p.m., when the troops of our brigade stationed at the provincial office withdrew on foot toward Chosun University, they were able to walk away along the road unscathed. If the demonstrators had had guns and were prepared to shoot, would that have been possible?

After retreating from the provincial government building to Chosun University, we immediately received an urgent evacuation order. I also remember that an armored vehicle at the university plaza opened fire repeatedly toward the surrounding neighborhood—where residents, children, and curious onlookers had gathered. Presumably, the purpose was to cover the retreat of the soldiers and to maintain operational secrecy. But whether the shots were meant to be direct attacks or simply warning shots to disperse people—I do not know.

We quickly packed up our gear and departed Chosun University around 7 p.m., as dusk fell. The main unit, carrying important documents and equipment on military trucks, was ambushed by demonstrators as they exited the city, resulting in the first military casualties. 

We didn’t know where we were going—we just followed the soldier ahead of us, walking all night. Then, around 11 a.m. the next day—May 22—we realized we had arrived in a deep valley in Mudeungsan. There, not only our brigade, but—though I’m not certain—also troops from another brigade had gathered. We received rations delivered by air and were issued 580 rounds of live ammunition per person, as well as grenades and tear gas. Then we rested our exhausted bodies and awaited operational orders. We were like wild animals trapped in a jungle of barbarism.

In that mountain valley, I heard that a college student who had been taken prisoner was executed by firing squad. I did not witness it myself, but I heard the story from a fellow soldier in another battalion who saw it and confided in one of my juniors, saying he couldn’t understand why he had to be in such a unit. At the time, the incident circulated within the unit as a rumor, and about ten years later, the discovery of skeletal remains with gunshot wounds in the area where the airborne troops had been stationed served as evidence. That wasn’t the only case. One company from another battalion, while lying in ambush along a national road, spotted a vehicle carrying protesters and opened fire, killing many students. A female student who was the only survivor from that bus later testified that the soldiers confirmed the kills by individually checking and executing the wounded. Her account shocked many people.

We stayed in the Mudeungsan valley from the 22nd to the 24th and then received orders for an operation to recapture the provincial office and other key facilities in Gwangju. But strangely, the operational order was given and then canceled again. I suspect there was some disagreement within the South Korea–U.S. military command about how to proceed with the final crackdown, which was expected to result in heavy casualties. Much later, I learned that when DEFCON 3 is declared—signifying a wartime state and elevated alert level—South Korea's military operational command transfers to the ROK-U.S. Combined Forces Command, and no military action can be taken without U.S. consent.

Looking out over the darkened city of Gwangju from the mountains was a mournful experience. The suppression troops had already withdrawn from the city, but for some unknown reason, gunfire erupted all through the night, like beans popping in a frying pan. On the night of the 23rd, there was an order to launch an operation into the city that was later canceled. I still remember the sight of fellow soldiers, worn out by continuous operations and forced marches, fast asleep in their tents from sheer exhaustion. We were spent. We hadn’t properly washed or shaved for days. Numbed by the monotony of military life, we had no idea what we were doing or what might happen to us the next moment. Those simple, snoring faces, just relieved to be fed and resting...

Unable to sleep, sensing that the upcoming urban assault and the mission to reclaim key sites would result in heavy casualties and put my life in grave danger, I left the tent and prayed alone beneath a secluded rock. I was so tired, and my senses dulled by routine military life, that it was hard to collect my thoughts. But my prayer was something like this: “God, I was a seminary student, hoping to become a pastor. But now I’ve come to this point where I must kill innocent people to stay alive—or be killed myself. Please help me escape this nightmare. Let me neither kill nor be killed.”

It was late spring, and the land was lush with new growth. The mountains were filled with vibrant life and beauty. But May 24th—this day would become the most painful, the most tragic day not just for me, but for many soldiers and civilians alike.

After finishing breakfast, a sudden order for withdrawal was given. We were told to bring all our hidden packs and gear from where they had been buried in the mountains, which indicated that we were not heading out for another battle or mission but were instead relocating or retreating. It seemed we were moving to Songjeong-ri Airfield, located on the outskirts of Gwangju, where we would likely carry out the final operations to retake the city. Around 1 p.m., about a thousand soldiers boarded dozens of military vehicles, led by armored cars, and began moving toward the airfield. At that point, each soldier was armed with 580 rounds of live ammunition and various weapons including grenades and gas canisters. We were ordered to load our weapons with live rounds and maintain full alert against possible ambushes by protesters during the move. As we traveled along the national highway, we heard intermittent gunshots being fired toward nearby civilian villages.

These were rural villages far removed from downtown Gwangju, where farmers were planting rice in paddies or children were playing in schoolyards, seemingly unaware of the chaos unfolding in the city. Even now, I don’t understand why soldiers opened fire in such places. The occasional gunshot soon turned into a continuous barrage, like beans popping in a skillet. I vividly remember the farmers startled out of their fields, the children running from the reservoir in terror, and students scattering in panic from the playground—all from the sound of gunfire. According to the soldiers, they said the protesters had appeared, but I still don’t know the truth. For someone who didn’t experience that situation firsthand, it might be hard to understand, but from what I felt, it seemed that the soldiers, having loaded live rounds and gripped by fear on one hand and instinct on the other, fired at any moving object they saw. I later found out that during this chaos, several innocent villagers, including children, had been shot and killed.

A little later, in a place called Songam-dong, something even more horrific happened—by far the most dreadful thing I experienced during the Gwangju Uprising. A company from the Gwangju Infantry School, lying in ambush with recoilless rifles, mistook the approaching vehicles of the airborne troops, led by an armored car, for protester vehicles and opened fire on them. It wasn’t a long battle—probably no more than five minutes—but in that brief moment, I wondered how on earth soldiers could fire into a peaceful residential neighborhood like that. Caught off guard, I didn’t even duck for cover and was simply watching when I was hit in the head by a bullet.

The infantry school soldiers directly hit the armored vehicle at the front with a recoilless rifle, destroying it, and continued to attack the trailing vehicles. Suddenly, explosions rang out from all directions, and startled soldiers responded with gunfire or jumped out of the vehicles, fleeing into roadside ditches.

I first realized I had been shot when I felt something strike my body. I collapsed, as if my strength had suddenly vanished. I vaguely sensed that something had happened to the back of my head. As death came upon me so suddenly, I felt a wave of fear and futility wash over me. How could this happen to me? I couldn't believe this was really happening. What I remember most clearly was not just the fear of death, but a deep, aching sorrow about my family—especially my mother. As I imagined the agony she would feel upon hearing of my death, the pain was unbearable.

I didn’t want to face the reality of what had happened to me. I still had a faint consciousness, and even if I were to die, I just wanted to pass quietly like that. I was too afraid to confirm the extent of my injury. But trembling, I began to check myself. I touched the back of my head and felt blood pouring out. Then I felt my face. If the bullet had passed through the back of my head, I thought it would have come out the front.

I felt around my face, but there was no exit wound. The wound on the back of my head didn’t seem that large either. I began to feel a glimmer of hope—maybe I wouldn’t die. I was alone in the vehicle, lying there. I saw my comrades jumping out and running, heard explosions and gunfire all around. The only thought in my mind was that I had to get out of the vehicle if I wanted to survive.

As I tried to stand and jump out of the vehicle, a huge explosion occurred and I was thrown down, feeling like my entire body had been torn into a thousand pieces. That was the second disaster. I believe it was a shell from a recoilless rifle that exploded nearby. At the moment of the blast, I felt as though my whole body had been beaten with a giant club and torn apart. Terrified, I screamed and cried as death rushed toward me. I was consumed by fear. My body was riddled with shrapnel, soaked in blood, and in agonizing pain. I couldn’t even move. I lay on the ground and cried out desperately, "Oh God! Oh God!" I don't think even my upbringing in a Christian household or my status as a seminary student had ever made me call on God so desperately as I did then.

After some time, my consciousness returned, though I was still in great pain. Explosions and gunfire continued around me, bullets flying past. I feared that if I stayed there, I'd be riddled with bullets. Fortunately, the mistaken crossfire eventually ceased, and things began to settle down. I looked around—bodies of comrades were scattered everywhere, some with their bones exposed.

Among the dead was a sergeant from another company who had boasted to me just that morning about stabbing twenty of "them" the night before.

I was still lying on the ground, gasping for breath, unable to move—only barely able to shift my right arm. I started to feel a problem with my breathing. Suddenly I couldn’t breathe. Like a dying fish, I opened my mouth toward the sky, gasping for air. I thought for sure: this is it, I’m dying. Fear gripped me once again. I continued to cry out in my heart to God, begging to be saved. Perhaps because God took pity on me, my breathing slowly returned, and I was finally able to assess what had happened to me. I turned my head to examine my body. My right elbow was bleeding and embedded with shrapnel; I couldn’t move it. My left side, between my armpit and heart, was soaked in blood. Blood ran down my forehead as well, and my left leg was completely drenched in it. The pain was unbearable, and I couldn’t move at all.

Only my right arm could move a little. I was parched with thirst. Carefully, I took out my canteen and sipped a bit of water—it helped me regain some awareness. Despite everything, it seemed I might survive, since the bullets and shrapnel hadn’t pierced any vital organs. When my body was engulfed by the explosion, I had felt as if heavenly wings were shielding me. Perhaps God had taken pity on me and protected me. If so, what of those who had to die so cruelly in that hellish battlefield? I wonder now where my mind truly was at that moment. After I came to, I was eventually found by my comrades. I was stripped of my clothes and transported to a hospital. During that time, I prayed to God, thanking Him for sparing my life, while also cursing and crying out, “Damn it! Did I come to the army just to die like this?” I directed my anger at the unknown powers that had thrown me into such undesired misery.

As far as I know, that incident resulted in the deaths of nine soldiers on the spot. Two more died later in the hospital. Over forty soldiers were seriously or critically injured. Some soldiers, overwhelmed by the deaths and injuries of their comrades, reportedly stormed into nearby villages and—driven by blind rage—committed atrocities, shooting and killing local youths and livestock. What did the peaceful villagers in those remote rural areas have to do with soldiers mistakenly firing on each other? I believe some of the soldiers who committed these acts were so indoctrinated with the idea that “all Gwangju people are the enemy” that they justified such senseless violence.

I didn’t mention this earlier, but when a soldier in our unit was killed by an armored vehicle near the provincial government building, a sergeant who had been close to him claimed he had taken revenge by firing indiscriminately at demonstrators, boasting about it afterward.

The military's ideological education—or more accurately, brainwashing—that constantly branded student protesters as leftist or pro-North Korea sympathizers had deeply affected soldiers like us. It’s terrifying how such indoctrination can make people commit unspeakable acts.

I know several superiors from my unit who committed such acts without hesitation. I wonder: do they now regret what they did? What kind of memory does that "glorious excursion" leave them with today?

When the armored vehicle was destroyed, six soldiers inside were affected. Three died, and the battalion commander and two others were seriously injured. One of the dead was just ten days away from being discharged—how incredibly unlucky. One of the seriously injured officers had a calm and pleasant personality but was notorious for violently treating both his subordinates and protestors. Another was our battalion commander, a Catholic known in the unit for his solid leadership and strong sense of duty. He lost his left arm in the incident.

Dozens of helicopters were urgently dispatched, and in order of the severity of injuries I was transported on the second helicopter to the Kwangju Armed Forces Integrated Hospital. Just before being evacuated, I saw a sergeant I had normally been close with who had suffered a gunshot wound through the abdomen and was bleeding heavily. His helmet was filled with blood, and as he struggled for breath he pleaded for someone to save him. He was a man of gentle character who ordinarily got along well even with lower-ranking men within the unit. Tragically, he died during surgery at the hospital.

After receiving emergency treatment, I collapsed into a deep sleep from exhaustion. When I woke up, it was already the following afternoon, around 4 p.m. on May 25. I had slept for nearly 24 hours. I still can’t forget the sound of the radio I heard while lying in that hospital bed, half-asleep. It had interrupted regular programming and was repeatedly broadcasting marching music while urging protestors to surrender. The sound filled me with dread, as if it were warning me of more terrible events to come.

At the hospital, student and civilian protesters who had been injured during the demonstrations were being treated in a separate ward. I met a senior psychology major from Chosun University who had been shot in the back and was lying down. What she told me was horrifying. She said she joined the protest after seeing the corpses of people who had been beaten to death by soldiers. According to her, she saw the body of someone who had been sprayed with paint from a flame thrower, as if their corpse had been battered in tempura flour. It left her in shock.

At the time, the military had a plan to shoot paint from flame throwers to mark key protest leaders for arrest. That victim was probably one of those targeted by that cruel strategy.

My recollections of Gwangju end here. After the uprising was suppressed, I was transferred to a military hospital in Daejeon near my hometown. I left Gwangju and spent nearly nine months in and out of hospitals. After returning to my unit, I occasionally heard stories from fellow soldiers who had participated in the final operation on May 27, which ended the Gwangju Uprising. But I cannot speak in detail about that horrific event.

All I can say with certainty is that I feel immense sympathy and sorrow for the demonstrators—young students and ordinary citizens who, armed only with righteous anger and patriotism, stood against elite airborne troops with the latest weaponry. It was never a fair fight. They knew they were risking death. It was an act of defiance, not survival. To hear anyone from the special forces boast about their “victory” during the operation on May 27 is truly absurd.

From what I’ve heard, when the troops entered the city on that final day, many of the young protestors hesitated to even fire their weapons.

If you visit the Seoul National Cemetery and walk toward the final burial section on the left, you will find the graves of about 20 soldiers who died in Gwangju. Right next to them are the graves of South Korean officers who died during the Korean War, including my uncle, who was killed in Uijeongbu on June 26, 1950. Every Memorial Day, my family and I visit his grave, and we also pay respects to the soldiers buried nearby who died in Gwangju.

During the 5th and 6th Republics, there were veterans’ groups that took pride in the fact that these soldiers had “defended the nation.” But after the military regime fell, and as the truth about their atrocities was revealed, those gatherings faded away. Now only the bereaved families mourn quietly at those graves. The gravestones show that the privates were promoted to corporals and the sergeants to staff sergeants posthumously, but can those honorary promotions compensate for the senseless deaths of young men who were just following orders? Can they heal the lifelong grief of their families?

Twenty years have passed since the tragic events in Gwangju. What was once condemned as a “riot” is now recognized as a democratic movement. Those who died have been vindicated, and their reputations restored. Some of the men who were imprisoned for “plotting rebellion” now lead the country, while the military leaders who suppressed the uprising have been punished for their crimes and corruption.

So, can we say that the tragedy of Gwangju is truly over?

Every year, when May comes around, I hear Gwangju calling to me. For nearly twenty years, I’ve listened to that voice in my heart but have never been able to bring myself to return. This year was no different.

But someday, I absolutely want to return to Gwangju in May. I want to stand again in that place where cries of anguish once echoed through the sky—cries like those of the righteous Abel and the prophet Zechariah, whose blood called out from the ground. I want to hear the sorrowful voices of the dead that still seem to ring out from the heavens and the earth.

And I don’t want to go alone. I want to go with my aging parents, who sent their beloved son into the pit of death and endured unimaginable grief. I want to go with my beloved wife and children. And there, I want to teach my wise children not only about the pain of Gwangju, but also about the truth of those who died, and about the dangers of corrupt power.

Finally, I want to offer a word to the likes of Chun Doo-hwan and the other figures of the Fifth Republic, who still cling to their delusions of the past: “Be thankful you are still alive in this country. Show some remorse and stay quiet.”

Lee Gyeong-nam

At the time of the 1980 Gwangju People's Uprising, he was a soldier in the 11th Airborne Brigade, 63rd Battalion, 9th Company. He is now a Methodist pastor serving in Hoengseong, Gangwon Province. This article was written by Pastor Lee Gyeong-nam and first published in 1999 in Dangdae Bipyeong [Contemporary Critique].

*******

One thing to note is that his description of them getting bonuses in late 1979 accords with an April 21, 1980 US Defense Intelligence Agency report, excerpted below: 

Activities of Lieutenant General Chon Tu Hwan - An Opposing View

[...]

8A. (U) Details: [3 lines redacted, likely about source.] He is among the most reliable sources available to this office and provided the following information concerning LTG Chon Tu Hwan during wide-ranging conversations 18 and 19 April 1980.

(a) For several years LTG Chon has had a widespread loyal following within the ROK Army which has been carefully cultivated. Among the techniques Chon uses to insure loyalty are his own persuasiveness, KMA class ties, assignment of supporters to key positions, and the payment of substantial sums of money to loyal subordinates. Source stated that while he was a subordinate commander under Chon in the 1st ROK Infantry Division, he received a minimum of 100,000 won each month for operating expenses. This money was received directly from then MG Chon, or from one of his trusted subordinates. All other subordinate commanders also received similar payments, with the amount dependent on their respective positions. Following the events of 12-13 December 1979, Chon reportedly authorized the payment of 500,000,000 won to members of the Tactical Operations Center (TOC), Capital Security Command, who he considered to have played a key role in supporting him at that time. Source was unsure where the money for these payments came from, but expressed the opinion it was from certain unspecified businessmen who traditionally lent financial support to influential persons both within and outside of the military.

[Line redacted] The payment of “reimbursement” or “expense” funds within the ROK Army is not unusual. However, the amounts involved here are substantially larger than is normally the case. LTG Chon appears to have access to seemingly unlimited funds. He reportedly has spent large amounts of money in recent months during his campaign to generate support from segments of Korean society outside the military and justify the 12 December and subsequent actions.

Another thing to note is that (and I'm 99% sure on this - neither General Wickham's book or James Young's book mention it) the threat level in Korea during May 1980 was not raised to DEFCON 3 (though according to this, the ROK Army's designation was raised to Jindogae 1 in the Honam area), nor was Combined Forces Command (CFC) ever in charge of operations. As well, all troops involved in Gwangju were either never under CFC Operational Control (OPCON) or were removed from OPCON before May 18. (Some units were removed from OPCON after May 21 but were never sent to Gwangju.) 

Also, he mentions being sent to Dongguk University where some soldiers were "sent to apprehend protesting students inside the campus," which accords with a story told to me a few days ago by someone who walked by that campus on the morning of May 18 and smelled tear gas. This speaks to the incorrect belief that protests only happened in Gwangju and not in Seoul. The suppression at Dongguk University - and a handful of other mentions in US Embassy cables - suggest that protests were planned and even attempted but they were stopped before they could really start by the troops stationed on campuses and circulating in trucks around the city (which was intended to intimidate the citizenry). As Ambassador Gleysteen reported on May 27, "In Seoul the city was calm, but the atmosphere was – to put it bluntly – one of military occupation."

I'll likely post the 3rd Brigade account - which also describes the unit's suppression of the October 1979 Busan protests - next.

Monday, April 20, 2026

The 66th anniversary of the April 19, 1960 student revolution

 Yesterday was the 66th anniversary of the April 19, 1960 student revolution. I'd never visited the 4.19 Cemetery before, but with a friend staying in the area, we decided to visit.

Outside the entrance were banners reading "Commemoration: The 66th anniversary of the 4.19 revolution. We will forever remember the spirit of 4.19."

Inside the cemetery setting up had begun for a large event the next day (which, I later learned, was attended by President Lee). Saturday also saw a large number of students - certainly some of them Korea University students - who gathered en masse in the mid afternoon.

This graphic posted at the entrance to the space where the commemoration ceremony was to take place lays out the human cost of 4.19:

Overall Figures

Total injured: 6,259 people

Hospitalized (including injured and dead): 1,802 people

Total deaths: 186 people

Injured by Gender

Men: 1,641

Women: 127

Unspecified: 34

Injured by Age Group

Under 10: 9

Teens: 632

20s: 779 

30s: 190

40s: 88

50+: 31

Unknown: 73

Deaths by Region

Seoul: 144

Outside Seoul: 42

Deaths by Social Status / Group

General public: 96

University students: 24

High school students: 39

Middle school students: 21

Elementary students: 6

Deaths by Cause

Shot (gunfire): 165

Traffic accidents: 10

Protest formation accidents: 5

Beaten by police: 3

Other: 3


Tombs here are both for those killed during 4.19 and the injured who have died since.

A closer look at the tombs reveals (on the back) when and how they died and their ages:


Tomb of An Bu-ja 
Chungcheongnam-do 

Born Aug. 3, 1945, in Seosan, Chungnam. 
Shot while protesting in front of City Hall on April 21, 1960 
Died April 24, 1960 at Capital Army Hospital  (14 years old)


Tomb of Im Dong-seong
Jongam Elementary School

Born Sept. 17, 1950, in Seoul. Attended Jongam Elementary School [near Anam Rotary].
Died April 19, 1960 from a gunshot wound while among the protesters.  (9 years old)

Inside the portrait hall.


I decided to go for a walk along Uicheon since it was such a nice day.


Three birds: magpie on the shore at left, Mandarin duck in the middle, and a bulbul on the branch at right. There were lots of waterfowl on certain stretches of the stream, as well as an egret or two.


Mallards and ducklings. 

I reached the street Line 4 runs under near Suyu Station and decided to make my way there, but then discovered a street - which turned out to be the same street in the first photo above that runs to the 4.19 Cemetery - that had been closed to traffic for a 2-day 4.19 Revolution Citizens' Cultural Festival, complete with booths and parades and lots of activities for kids and adults alike.



4.19 seems to me to be rather understudied today. There is a ton of information about the Gwangju Uprising in English and Korean. I'm left wondering if there is a good narrative-history book out there in Korean that could be translated so that the chronology and scope of events could be made clearer. (For example, I know a witness who told me he saw police shooting in front of Seoul Station; I'd had no idea there were protests there.)

For the lead up to the protests and the cultural / social background, on the other hand, Charles Kim's Youth For Nation: Culture and Protest in Cold War South Korea is well worth reading.

Friday, April 17, 2026

Recovering family prestige: The inscriptions on the Pungsan Sim family tombs on Gaehwasan.

The tomb of Sim Jeong.
 

 A few weeks ago I wrote about the history of Gaehwasan and the Pungsan Sim family in the Korea Times ahead of a historical walk on the mountain for RAS Korea.

While I've led that walk several times over 12 years (and lived near the mountain for 11 years), my knowledge about the Pungsan Sim family, whose tombs dot the eastern side of the mountain, was limited to the basic outline of their lives. The first family members to be buried on the mountain also had the most dramatic lives. They are:

Sim Jeong (沈貞, 1471–1531)

Sim Sa-son (沈思遜, 1493–1528)

Sim Sa-sun (沈思順, 149_–1531)

Sim Su-gyeong (沈守慶, 1516–1599)


With the discovery of this blog post, which includes transcriptions of three of the tombs' epitaphs, and the judicious use of ChatGPT to translate them and to transcribe and translate a more recent tombstone, as well as to render dates in the Gregorian calendar, I was able to learn a great deal more about the dramatic lives and deaths of these men, as well as to understand the 'rectification of history' the epitaphs represent. What follows is an historical overview and transcriptions of the epitaphs, with a bit of commentary.


Historical overview:

Sim Jeong’s ancestors had served Joseon’s kings since the time of Taejong (r. 1400-1418) and Sim was part of the Hun'gu ‘old guard’ faction who deposed King Yeonsan-gun and enthroned his half brother Jungjong in 1506 and was made a ‘meritorious subject’ as a result. He rose through the ranks of government along with his sons, Sa-son and Sa-sun.

Jo Gwang-jo was the leader of the Sarim ‘scholar forest’ faction who challenged the Hun'gu, tried to strip them of their ‘meritorious subject’ status, and had Sim Jeong and Sim Sa-son removed from their positions.

With concubine Park Gyeongbin’s help, Sim Jeong was one of the Hun'gu who conspired to bring down Jo Gwang-jo and purge the Sarim faction in 1519, resulting in Jo’s execution.

Sim Jeong rose to new heights within the government (reaching the second-highest position) and in 1527 he saw to the exile of a new challenger, Kim An-ro (whose daughter married one of King Jungjong's sons). That same year he took part in condemning and causing the exile of the concubine Park Gyeongbin for her part in the ‘rat incident’ (which involved mutilated rats appearing around the palace, seen as a traitorous curse upon the crown prince).

In 1528, Sim Jeong's son Sa-son was killed by Jurchen raiders on the northern border.

In 1530, Kim An-ro returned to court and by 1531 had brought about the exile of Sim Jeong by spreading rumors that he had previously had an affair with the traitorous concubine Park Gyeongbin.

In 1531, his son Sa-sun was framed by an ally of Kim An-ro and died during interrogation. Soon after, Sim Jeong’s execution was ordered by the king.

Kim An-ro eventually rose and fell in a similar manner, and after his execution in 1537, Sa-sun was rehabilitated and seen as a victim of factionalism.

Attempts to rehabilitate Sim Jeong failed, however, because the Sarim faction eventually regained power and held it (as they splintered into multiple factions) for the rest of the Joseon era, and they never forgave Sim Jeong for his role in the death of their mentor, Jo Gwang-jo.

Because Sim Jeong's son Sa-son had been killed on the border while loyally serving the country, his legacy was untainted, and Sa-son’s son Su-gyeong was able to rise to the highest ranks of government. He is particularly known for organizing righteous army units during the Japanese Imjin invasions (1592-98).

While the date of Sa-sun’s gravestone (the current stone is very new) is uncertain, the tombstones of Sim Jeong and Sim Sa-son were erected in 1580 and were written or commissioned by Sim Su-gyeong when he was at the height of his prestige, and his own tombstone’s epitaph was written by himself and erected 2 years after his death, in 1601. As a result, the epitaphs on these tombstones should be viewed as Sim Su-gyeong’s attempts to restore his family’s honor.


Tomb Inscriptions:

Note: Korean dates mentioned in the epitaphs refer to the year (of the 60 year zodiac cycle) and the era (Ming Emperor’s reign).

The tomb of Sim Jeong (1471–1531), erected 1580, with 4 statues of  civil officials (muninseok).



 The faded epitaph engraved on the back of Sim Jeong's tombstone.


Tombstone Inscription for Sim Jeong (1471–1531)

Tomb of Lord Sim Jeong of Pungsan, Grand Supreme Pillar of State (Daegwang Boguk Sungnok Daebu) and Left State Councillor;
his consort, Lady Heo of Hayang, of the rank Jeonggyeong-buin, is buried to the left.

Epitaph for Lord Sim, Meritorious Subject of State Restoration of Joseon under the Great Ming.

The lord’s name was Jeong, his courtesy name Jeongji, and his clan origin Pungsan. His great-grandfather, Gwiryeong, assisted our King Taejong in suppressing internal rebellion, became a meritorious subject, and was enfeoffed as Lord of Pungsan. He rose to the rank of Jeongheon Daebu and served as Director of Military Provisions, and his posthumous title was Jeongyang. His grandfather, Chi, served as magistrate of Namwon with the rank of Gaseon Daebu. His father, Eung, was a meritorious subject who held the rank of Gaeui Daebu and was enfeoffed as Lord of Pungsan, receiving the posthumous title Yangho. When the lord rose to high office, his grandfather was posthumously promoted to Minister of Taxation, and his father to Chief State Councillor. His mother, Lady Seo, of the rank Jeonggyeong-buin, was the daughter of Munhan, Vice Director of the Royal Granary.

The lord was born on the 25th day of the intercalary ninth month of the Sinmyo year of the Chenghua era. In the Imja year of the Hongzhi era he passed the lower civil examination, and in the Imsul year he passed the higher examination and was appointed to the Office of Diplomatic Documents. He then moved to the Office of the Inspector-General as an inspector, and in the Gyehae year entered the Hongmun-gwan as Assistant Editor, being promoted through Editor, Deputy Director, Director, and Deputy Chief. The following year, the Gapja year, he observed mourning for his father. In the Byeongin year of the Zhengde era he became a meritorious subject of state restoration; in the Jeongmyo year he was appointed Chief Lecturer and rose to senior rank, later being promoted to Gaseon Daebu and enfeoffed as Lord of Hwachon. He served as Right Magistrate of the capital, Governor of Hwanghae Province, Vice Minister in the Ministries of Taxation, Justice, and Personnel, and Magistrate of Gaeseong; in the Jeongchuk year he was specially promoted to Jaheon Daebu and became Minister of Justice.

The lord judged cases sincerely and swiftly, so that prisoners did not accumulate and the prisons were emptied, for which he was commended. He then served as Vice Councillor of the State Council, Minister of Personnel, Mayor of the capital, Left Vice Councillor concurrently Director of the Office of Royal Investigation, and Commander of the Capital Garrison; in the Imo year of the Jiajing era he rose to Sungjeong Daebu and became Right State Councillor. In the Gyemi year he observed mourning for his mother, and in the Eulyu year he was appointed Minister of Rites, thereafter serving as Chief Inspector-General and Minister of Justice.

In the Jeonghae year, in spring he was appointed Right State Councillor and in winter rose to Left State Councillor. The treacherous Kim An-ro, who had earlier been exiled, secretly sought reinstatement during the Gyeongin years. At that time the lord served in the State Council, and his son Sasun was Deputy Director of the Hongmun-gwan; when both the State Council and Hongmun-gwan reported opposition, An-ro believed the father and son had led the effort and bore deep resentment. When An-ro was restored to office, he incited his followers among the censors to impeach the lord on false charges, resulting in his exile.

In the Sinmyo year, Chae Mu-taek, a partisan of An-ro, posted an anonymous placard criticizing the government; the censors accused Sasun and demanded interrogation. Sasun did not yield and died under torture, and ultimately disaster extended to the lord as well, who died in exile in Gangseo, causing the people of the whole country to feel deep injustice. This occurred on the 3rd day of the 12th month of that year (late January 1532), when the lord was 61 years old. In the 2nd month of the following year (March–April 1532), he was buried at Gaehwa-ri, west of Yangcheon.

His wife, Lady Heo, daughter of Dang, who held the post of Samang, possessed high virtue; however, after the family suffered calamity she fell ill from grief and died on the 19th day of the 4th month of the Gap-o year (June 1534) at the age of 67. In the 6th month she was buried together with the lord.

[A lengthy recounting of his descendants follows.]

Erected on the 3rd day of the 3rd month of the Gimyo year, the 7th year of Wanli (1601). Written by grandson Su-gyeong and inscribed by great-grandson Il-chwi.


Sim Su-gyeong would have been at the height of his career in 1580 when he wrote this epitaph for his grandfather. Since Kim An-ro was himself eventually executed in 1537, he could be described openly as “treacherous” and Sa-sun, who “died under torture,” was later exonerated. Attempts to rehabilitate Sim Jeong, however, ultimately failed because the Sarim faction returned to power and held it for the rest of the Joseon era, and refused to forgive Sim for his involvement in the downfall of their mentor, Jo Gwang-jo, in 1519. As a result, the text of Sim’s tombstone can only vaguely state that “disaster extended to the lord as well…causing the people of the whole country to feel deep injustice.”

 

The tombs of Sim Sa-son (1493-1528) and his wife, Lady Yi (1493-1578) flanked by 2 stone civil officials and 2 stone pillars (mangjuseok). 

Spirit road stele (sindobi) of Sim Sa-son, erected 1580, flanked by stone civil official and pillar.

Text on Sin Sa-son's spirit road stele.

Sindobi (Spirit-road Stele) Inscription for Sim Sa-son (1493-1528)

Epitaph inscription for the spirit-road stele of Lord Sim, who in Great Ming Joseon was posthumously granted the rank of Jaheon Daebu, Minister of Rites, concurrently Director of the Royal Lectures, the Annals Office, and Sungkyunkwan, Chief Scholar of the Hongmun-gwan and the Office of Royal Decrees; who in office served as Jeolchung Janggun, Senior Guard of the Chungmu Guard, and Commander of Manpo Garrison.

Composed by Hong Seom, Grand Supreme Pillar of State, Chief State Councillor, concurrently Director of the Royal Lectures, Hongmun-gwan, Office of Royal Decrees, Annals Office, and Directorate of Astronomy.
Calligraphy by Song In, Heon Daebu, Lord of Yeoseong.
Seal script heading by Han Jun, Tongjeong Daebu, Magistrate of Onseong.

The Pungsan Sim clan produced many notable figures over generations. Gwiryeong assisted our King Taejong in suppressing internal rebellion, was recorded as a meritorious subject, and was enfeoffed as Lord of Pungsan; he rose to the rank of Jeongheon Daebu and served as Director of Military Provisions, with the posthumous title Jeongyang. His son Chi served as magistrate of Namwon with the rank of Gaseon Daebu. The magistrate’s son was Eung, who was recorded as a meritorious subject and, as Gaeui Daebu, was enfeoffed as Lord of Pungsan, with the posthumous title Yangho. Yangho-gong’s son was Jeong, who became a meritorious subject of state restoration and rose to Left State Councillor, though he was eventually dismissed due to an incident. He married the daughter of Heo Dang of the prominent Hayang clan, and on the 25th day of the 12th month of the Gyechuk year of the Hongzhi era, the lord was born.

The lord’s name was Sason, courtesy name Yanggyeong. He possessed a loyal and generous character and excelled in many talents. Though he did not delve narrowly into scholarship, he attained deep understanding. He delighted in careful and far-reaching thought, often surpassing others’ expectations, and did not engage in shallow, opportunistic behavior like “morning three, evening four.” In all matters he sought to accomplish things through diligence and prudence, without the slightest hesitation. Thus he repeatedly undertook tasks that others found difficult—this was the principle he upheld throughout his life.

At eight or nine years old, his filial piety, fraternal affection, loyalty, and sincerity were already evident, setting him apart from ordinary children; by the age of twenty, he was tall and striking in appearance, with distinct features and a heroic bearing that clearly distinguished him from his peers—one could tell what lay within him simply by seeing him. In the Gyeyu year of the Zhengde era he passed the sama examination, and in the Jeongchuk year he passed the higher civil examination and entered the Office of Diplomatic Documents. He was then recommended to the Office of Royal Decrees and served for a long time as a historiographer, never once compromising the integrity of his brush. He entered the Royal Secretariat as a Juseo, and shortly thereafter was appointed Assistant Section Chief in the Ministry of Rites, then transferred as a censor in the Office of the Censor-General, and was promoted from Assistant Section Chief to Section Chief in the Ministry of War. Studying military affairs, he responded skillfully to the needs of the time; important and major matters were always entrusted to him, and he in turn exerted himself to realize his ambitions. For this reason, while serving in military office, there was hardly a day of rest, and it is said that even seasoned generals of the time could not match his ingenious strategies and foresight. He entered the Hongmun-gwan as Suchan and rose to Eunggyo. He firmly upheld upright principles without wavering, so that his colleagues relied on and respected him. He repeatedly undertook remonstrance duties, widely establishing discipline, and whenever he presented forthright arguments, all who heard them admired him. In the Eulyu year he entered the State Council as Sain, was appointed Jibui in the Office of the Inspector-General, moved to the Hongmun-gwan as Jeonhan, and then rose to Jikjehak.

At that time, as northern frontier tribes stirred, King Jungjong considered carefully and judged that only someone combining civil and military abilities could defend Manpo, the western gateway; thus he selected the lord from among his close attendants, specially elevated him to Dang-sang rank, and appointed him Manpo cheomjeoljesa. Deeply moved by royal favor, the lord resolved to devote his life to the state and, upon taking up his post, exerted himself to the utmost. Carefully observing the situation of the frontier peoples, he applied both authority and benevolence appropriately, so that both the garrison troops and the frontier tribes called him “grandfather.” As he remained long at Manpo, he came to understand all aspects of frontier conditions and, whenever there were hardships among the people or soldiers, he found ways to eliminate them. Learning that firewood was scarce in the garrison, he led troops across the Amnok River and personally supervised its collection; when suddenly attacked by barbarians, he attempted to withdraw across the river, but his horse fell, and he was ultimately killed. This occurred on the 23rd day of the 1st month of the Muja year, when he was only 36 years old. When news of this spread, the entire country was shocked and grieved, and King Jungjong, lamenting the loss of a worthy minister, rolled up his sleeves wishing to avenge the disgrace at once, and for several days was unable to take his meals at the proper time. Alas! It was not that he lacked talent, nor that his aspirations were not great, nor that he failed to meet his time—why, then, was his fate so ill-starred? In the 3rd month of that year, on the 11th day, he was buried on a southeast-facing site on the northwestern slope of Gaehwa Mountain, west of Yangcheon County.

The lady was of the Yi clan, a distinguished family of Gyeongju. She was the great-granddaughter of Yeon-son, a Vice Minister, and the granddaughter of Gyeon, a Cheomjeong; her father was Ye-jang. Her mother, of the Kim clan, was the daughter of Su-mal, who was posthumously promoted to Yeongjungchu and had served as Sadosi jeong; she was born on the 15th day of the 2nd month of the Gyechuk year of the Hongzhi era (1493). Having lost her parents at an early age, she was raised by her maternal aunt, the Lady of Sangsan-bu, wife of Prince Je-an. The Lady of Sangsan-bu loved her dearly and educated her well, so that although she remained deep within the inner quarters, her good name became widely known. At eighteen she married into the Sim family; she served her parents-in-law with filial devotion and lived harmoniously with her sisters-in-law, so that all relatives praised her as a virtuous person. When news of the lord’s death arrived, she nearly died herself but revived, and always lamented that she had not been able to follow him in death. Her son, the Minister (panseo-gong), was only thirteen at the time, but despite many hardships she raised and educated him well and saw him grow into distinction. When her son rose to the high office of Minister, the lord was posthumously promoted to Minister of Rites, and she became a government lady (jeongbuin). She passed away at home, having lived out her natural span, on the 1st day of the 4th month of the Muin year of Wanli [1578], at the age of eighty-six. The Minister served as provincial governor of the Eight Provinces, receiving great honor and the utmost filial support; with descendants flourishing to more than eighty persons, she enjoyed rare blessings and prosperity. On the 10th day of the 6th month of that year, she was buried beside the lord’s tomb in a separate grave.

She had three sons and two daughters. The eldest son was the Minister (panseo-gong), whose name was Sugyeong. He took first place in the higher civil examination in the Byeongo year and held numerous important offices, and is now Minister of Taxation. The second was Suyak, Jikjang of the Sadosi; the third was Sujun, Bongsa of the Saongwon. The eldest daughter married Magistrate Yi Ui-chung, and the second daughter married Yu Dae-eop. The Minister married the daughter of Magistrate Sin Pa and had two sons: the eldest, Iljang, is Sageun chalbang, and the second, Ilchwi, is a Dosa of the Uigeumbu; he also had five daughters—the first married Jeong Yeon, the second Hong Gi-yeong, holder of the Saui post, the third Jeon Hong-guk, the fourth Jo Gyeong-in, and the fifth Seong Rip. By a concubine he had Ilmae, Jikjang of the Gwansanggam, and three daughters. Suyak married the daughter of O Chung-hak and had two daughters: the eldest married Manho Yi I, and the second married An Gyeong-hui. He remarried the daughter of Magistrate Hwang Mong-jeong, and had two sons, Ileom and Ilgang, and three daughters, who are still young. Sujun married the daughter of Yi Gyeong-pil, a Jubu, and had two sons, Ilsin and Ilje, and two daughters: the eldest married Seol Ham, and the second Yi Eung-nam. He remarried the daughter of Yun Eom, an overseer, and had two sons, Ilja and Ilgeun, and one young daughter. Yi Ui-chung’s son was Hong-gi, and his daughter married Yi Gyeong-ham. Yu Dae-eop’s son Ji-yeong passed the military examination and became a Jubu of the Military Supply Office; he had two daughters, the eldest married Min Geon, and the second Sin Geuk-seong. There were seven great-grandsons—Gwan, Gon, Ran, Byeok, and the rest still young—and eight great-granddaughters.

After some time had passed following the lady’s burial, the Minister [Sim Su-gyeong] brought the complete family genealogy and requested of me [Hong Seom], saying, “If you do not write this, we cannot teach later generations the achievements of our ancestors.” Alas! Before I entered official life, I heard that the lord had met an untimely calamity at the hands of barbarians, and I wept with concern for the country. Now, being related by marriage to the Minister, how could I refuse on the grounds that my writing is unworthy to be inscribed on the spirit-road stele? Thus I compose the following inscription:

Heaven sent down a worthy man, as if to aid me.
He was to be made my minister, yet met with such grievous misfortune.
Was it only he who suffered calamity?
Heaven was imperiled and the state disgraced.
Yet Heaven has washed away his resentment; the Way of Heaven turns again.
An extraordinary and heroic man—his descendants will not cease.
On the hill of Gaehwa gathers pure energy; the river flows grandly encircling the tomb.
Here stands a lofty stele, by which one may behold his virtue.

Erected on the 1st day of the 5th month of the Gyeongjin year of Wanli (1580).

In the spring of the Eulyu year of Wanli (1585), when the Minister [Sim Su-gyeong] rose to Right State Councillor, the lord was again posthumously promoted to Left Councillor, and the lady was posthumously granted the title Jeonggyeong-buin. In the spring of the Gyeongin year (1590), when the Councillor rose to Right State Councillor, thereby the lord was… (illegible due to wear).

 

Sim Su-gyeong would have been at the height of his career when his mother died in 1578. The text of this Sindobi stele detailing the lives of his parents was written by Hong Seom (whose son married Sim Su-gyeong’s daughter), at Sim’s request and erected in 1580, the same year Sim himself wrote the epitaph and erected the tombstone for his grandfather, Sim Jeong. The final paragraph was added after the stele was erected to reflect Sa-son's posthumous promotions, which were based on the rank of his son, Su-gyeong.


A few meters down the hill from Sim Jeong's tomb is that of his son, Sim Sa-sun, with a much newer tombstone.

Tombstone Inscription for Sim Sa-sun (149_-1531)

Tomb of Sim Sa-sun, an official who served as Vice Director of the Hongmungwan and a lecturer for the Royal Lectures.

Grave of Lady Lee of the Deoksu Lee clan.

Among the worthy officials of the great Joseon state, there was one whose endowment of loyalty and filial devotion was abundant, whose learning was upright and whose conduct was pure. This was the late gentleman of the Pungsan Sim clan.

From early on he showed unusual seriousness and integrity. His disposition was firm and resolute, and he devoted himself to study, taking righteousness as his guiding principle. He did not seek adornment in empty words but grounded himself in substance, and those who knew him recognized his sincerity and strength of character.

[Genealogy follows]

In due course he passed the civil service examinations and entered official life. He served in offices of remonstrance and counsel, where it was his duty to speak directly to the throne and correct what was amiss. In deliberations on state affairs, he held fast to what was right and did not bend to the opinions of others. When he perceived error, he spoke without concealment, even when this brought resentment upon him.

His nature was such that he would not compromise for the sake of advancement, nor adjust his words to please those in power. Thus, although he was respected by those who valued principle, he also drew the enmity of those who preferred expediency.

At a time when the court was unsettled and factional strife intensified, accusations arose and spread. Though he had committed no wrongdoing, he was implicated and brought under investigation. Those in authority pressed him harshly, seeking to force admissions and construct a case against him.

He was subjected to repeated interrogations and severe treatment, yet he would not distort the truth nor falsely confess. Holding fast to his integrity, he endured suffering without yielding. In the end, his body succumbed, but his resolve did not break.

Alas, that a man of such uprightness should meet his end in this way. Those who knew him mourn deeply, and even those who hear of his fate from afar are moved to grief. His spirit, firm as metal and stone, remains unshaken, and though his life was cut short, his righteousness cannot be extinguished.

The calamity did not end with him alone, but extended further, bringing sorrow upon those connected with him. Yet even so, his conduct stands as a model, and his name endures as something that cannot be obscured.

He left descendants to continue the family line, and though he is gone, the trace of his virtue remains. In quiet reflection, one cannot but sigh at the injustice of his fate, and at the same time revere the constancy with which he upheld what was right.

Therefore, this account is set down, so that those who come after may know the truth of his life, and that his integrity and righteousness may be made manifest for all time.

 

The current tombstone is very new, perhaps replacing an older one. There is no date noting when the stone was originally erected, but the text was certainly written after Sim Sa-sun was rehabilitated following Kim An-ro’s downfall. This is a defensive and vindicating epitaph, which presents Sim Sa-sun as a righteous official destroyed by factional politics who died rather than betray the truth.

 

The tomb of Sim Su-gyeong (1516-1599) and Lady Sin, erected 1601. The stone civil officials are smaller in stature than the ones he erected for his father and grandfather.


Tombstone Inscription for Sim Su-gyeong (1516-1599)

Tomb of Lord Sim, Grand Supreme Pillar of State (Daegwang Boguk Sungnok Daebu), Right State Councillor of the State Council, concurrently Director of the Royal Lectures and Supervisor of the Annals Office, retired from office;
and the tomb of his consort, Lady Sin, of the rank Jeonggyeong-buin.

Tomb tablet of Lord Sim, retired Right State Councillor.

Of Great Ming Joseon … (illegible due to wear) … retired Lord Sim’s tomb tablet.

The lord’s name was Su-gyeong, his courtesy name Hui-an, and his clan origin Pungsan. His fifth-generation ancestor Gwiryeong was a meritorious subject who assisted the throne and held the rank of Jeongheon Daebu as Lord of Pungsan. His great-grandfather Eung was a meritorious subject who held the rank of Gaeui Daebu and was also Lord of Pungsan. His grandfather Jeong was a meritorious subject of state restoration and rose to Left State Councillor, but was dismissed in connection with an incident (the affair of Consort Park’s cursing of the Crown Prince). His father, Sason, served as Jikjehak of the Hongmun-gwan and, by special royal command, was appointed Military Commander of Manpo; he was posthumously promoted to Chief State Councillor. His mother, Lady Yi of the rank Jeonggyeong-buin, was the daughter of Ye-jang, a Mugongnang.

The lord was born on the 20th day of the 12th month of the Byeongja year of the Zhengde era (1516). In the Gyemyo year of the Jiajing era he passed both the saengwon and jinsa examinations, and in the Byeongo year he took first place in the higher civil examination. This was the year after King Myeongjong ascended the throne.

Among the offices he held in the capital were: Assistant Section Chief, Vice Minister, and Minister of the Ministry of Works; Vice Minister and Minister of Justice; Assistant Section Chief, Associate Director, Vice Minister, and Minister of War; Assistant Section Chief and Minister of Rites; Assistant Section Chief, Associate Director, Vice Minister, and Minister of Taxation; Assistant Section Chief and Section Chief of Personnel; Inspector and Counsellor of the State Council, Left and Right Vice Councillors and Chief Councillors, and Right State Councillor; Remonstrator and Senior Remonstrator of the Office of Censors; Inspector and Chief Inspector of the Office of the Inspector-General; and within the Hongmun-gwan he served as Deputy Editor, Deputy Chief Lecturer, Director of Publications, Jikjehak, and Chief Scholar. In the Royal Secretariat he served as various Royal Secretaries up to Chief Secretary. While serving in the Hongmun-gwan and Royal Secretariat, he concurrently held posts in the Royal Lectures, Annals Office, and Sungkyunkwan, including Registrar, Chief Instructor, and Associate Director. He also served as Right and Left Magistrate and Mayor of the capital; Judicial Commissioner of the Court of Review; Associate Director, Director, and Chief Director of the Office of Royal Investigation; Associate Director, Director, Chief Director, and Senior Councillor of the Privy Council; Vice Commander and Commander of the Capital Garrison; Commander of the Five Guards; Assistant Director of the Bureau of Armaments; and Director of the Court Music Bureau.

In provincial posts, he served as magistrate of Bupyeong and Anbyeon; governor of Gangwon, Chungcheong, Jeolla, Gyeongsang, Hamgyeong, and Gyeonggi Provinces; military commander of Pyeongan and South Hamgyeong; and Governor of Gaeseong. As a civil official, he was selected for special royal reading privilege and for drafting royal edicts, gaining renown for his literary ability; yet he was also chosen for posts usually held by military officials, such as Royal Guard officer, circuit inspector, staff officer, and positions within the Border Defense Council.

In the leap 4th month, 20th day of the Gihae year of the Wanli era (1599), he died of illness at the age of 84. On the 25th day of the 7th month of that year, he was buried in the family burial ground at Gaehwa-ri, Seo-myeon, Yangcheon County, in a paired grave with his wife, Lady Sin. He lost his father at thirteen, but through his mother’s instruction rose to prominence and honored her with his success; she died at the age of 86.

Though he long desired to retire from office, repeatedly requesting resignation after the age of seventy, this was not granted; instead, he spent his later years composing poetry, drinking wine, and passing time with archery and board games among village elders. At last, at the age of eighty-one, his resignation was accepted and he returned home. He often told his children: “Though I have undeservedly held the highest rank, and a spirit-road stele should be erected, when I reflect, there is nothing worthy of record—do not do so.” Therefore, this brief record is inscribed on a tablet stone.

His wife, Lady Sin, was the daughter of Sin Pa, an official of the Bureau of Armaments. She died fifteen years before him. They had two sons and three daughters…

[Extensive genealogy of descendants follows.]

His late father did not delight in self-praise, and personally composed this tomb inscription, writing at its end: “In later days, do not alter what I have written.” His words were so stern that not a single character could be added; nor could a full stele inscription be commissioned to praise his achievements—how could the sorrow of his descendants ever be exhausted? His loyalty, filial piety, integrity, learning, and virtue are briefly recorded in the royal edict issued upon his retirement.

The stone was erected on a day in the 5th month of the Sinchuk year, Wanli 29 (1601).
Respectfully written by his second son, Il-chwi.

 

Like the epitaphs for his father and grandfather, which Sim Su-gyeong either wrote himself or commissioned, Sim wrote his own epitaph, but refused to allow a Sindobi stele to be raised. Sim rose to the height of power but died peacefully of illness after retirement, unlike his father and grandfather. Having reached the peak of power unscathed, he had recovered his family’s honor. As a result, his epitaph displays his restraint and explicit rejection of self-glorification, while ironically still recording a career filled with immense prestige.


Below is a map showing the locations of the tombs and the routes to them from Banghwa Station at the end of Line 5. Two tombs are along the main road up the mountain (the green route), but Sim Jeong's is not, and is best approached by going through Neuti Park (which contains zelkova and gingko trees that are nearly 500 years old) and then heading north up the hill (the blue route). The valley to the southeast of Sim Su-gyeong's tomb also has a number of tombs and statues.